Let’s talk about one of Brazil’s best-kept secrets: Alter do Chão, a small village tucked deep in the state of Pará, right on the shores of the Tapajós River. This isn’t your typical beach destination—think river beaches with white sand, fresh fish straight from the water, and stunning flooded forests you can explore by canoe. Locals and travelers call it the Caribbean of the Amazon, and trust me, once you get there, you’ll get why.
In this Alter do Chão travel guide, I’ll show you the best things to do, the best time to go, how to get there (spoiler: there are direct flights!), and how to enjoy every minute in this Amazonian paradise.
One thing that immediately caught my attention in Alter do Chão was how easy it was to slow down. The rhythm of life here moves with the river—you’ll find yourself waking up early for boat rides, wandering through colorful local markets, and spending lazy afternoons on the sandbanks that appear and disappear with the seasons. There’s something almost magical about sipping fresh açaí under the shade of a tree, while the Tapajós shimmers under the sun like a mirror.
Another thing I loved about Alter do Chão is that it’s a place where nature really sets the scene. During the dry season, endless beaches form along the river, creating little private paradises you can reach by small boats. And when the waters rise, the landscape transforms into a lush, flooded forest begging to be explored. It feels like two completely different destinations wrapped into one, making it perfect whether you’re after adventure or simply looking for a peaceful escape.
🏝️ First Stop: Ilha do Amor (Love Island)
Right across from the main square and village center, you’ll find Ilha do Amor—aka Love Island—the most famous beach in Alter. During the dry season, the water level of the Tapajós River drops and this sandbar emerges in all its glory. The clear, warm water is perfect for swimming, and the view of the forested hills makes it feel like a scene from a dream.
If there’s one place that truly captures the spirit of Alter do Chão, it’s Ilha do Amor—or Love Island, as everyone calls it. This stunning stretch of white sand sits right across from the main village, easily accessible by a quick canoe ride that takes just a few minutes (and honestly, even that short trip feels like part of the adventure). The moment you arrive, you’re welcomed by crystal-clear waters, soft sand under your feet, and a peacefulness that’s hard to put into words.
I remember my first time stepping onto Ilha do Amor; it felt almost unreal. The beaches were wide and quiet, with little rustic huts offering cold coconut water and freshly grilled fish. You can spend hours here swimming, laying in the sun, or just sitting under a shady tree, watching the river gently flow by. As the day goes on, the light changes and makes the whole place even more beautiful—especially at sunset, when the sky and water seem to blend into one.
One thing to know is that Ilha do Amor changes a lot with the seasons. During the dry months (August to December), the beaches are huge and perfect for long walks. But even during the wetter months, when some parts are covered by water, the island doesn’t lose its charm—it simply becomes a different kind of paradise. Whether you’re visiting to swim, relax, or just take in the Amazon’s quiet beauty, Ilha do Amor is the kind of place that stays with you long after you leave.
🥾 Hike Up Serra da Piraoca
This hill sits behind the town center and offers the best view in Alter do Chão. It’s a moderate 30–45 minute hike through forest trails, ending in a panoramic lookout over the Amazon River, Tapajós River, and Ilha do Amor.
Early morning or late afternoon is the perfect time to go (sunsets up here are chef’s kiss). Be sure to pack water, wear solid shoes, and bring bug spray—especially if it’s flood season.
Even though the hike up Serra da Piraoca isn’t too difficult, it still feels like a little adventure—especially with the sounds of the forest all around you. I found the trail pretty straightforward, but it can get hot and humid, so pacing yourself and staying hydrated really makes a difference. It’s not just about reaching the top; the path itself gives you that feeling of truly being surrounded by the Amazon.
Once you reach the summit, the view is absolutely worth every step. You get this breathtaking 360-degree panorama: the Tapajós River shimmering in the distance, the vast green canopy stretching endlessly, and Ilha do Amor looking like a perfect slice of paradise below. It’s the kind of view that makes you stop and just soak it all in—you feel tiny, but in the best possible way.
If you can time your hike for sunset, I really recommend it. The way the golden light touches the rivers and the sky fills with deep oranges and pinks is something you’ll never forget. Just remember to start your descent before it gets completely dark, and don’t rush—half the magic of Serra da Piraoca is simply taking your time to enjoy every moment.
🌳 Kayak Through Green Lake (Lago Verde)
Green Lake, or Lago Verde, is one of Alter’s most unique spots. During the rainy season, the lake overflows and spills into the forest, creating magical flooded forests. This is the ideal spot to glide through on a kayak or canoe, surrounded by towering trees and birdsong. Some tour operators even offer silent boat tours for a meditative, off-the-grid experience.
It’s also a prime location to learn about the medicinal properties of local plants—ask your guide about what the locals use to treat fevers, stings, or digestive issues. Many local communities around here still live in harmony with the forest, preserving centuries-old knowledge.
Paddling through Lago Verde is pure magic—you almost feel like you’re floating through a hidden world. The water is so calm that you can hear every leaf rustle and every distant bird call. I personally loved how the light filters through the trees, painting the water in shades of green and gold. It’s an experience that slows you down in the best way, making you appreciate every small detail around you.
If you visit outside the peak of the rainy season, the scenery changes but stays just as beautiful. The lake recedes, revealing small beaches and new trails to explore. Whether you’re navigating through the flooded forest or walking along its edges, Lago Verde offers a peaceful, intimate look at the Amazon that few travelers get to see. It’s one of those places that stays with you long after you leave.
🚤 Best Boat Trips in Alter do Chão
One of the best things to do is spend full days exploring the rivers by boat. Here are the top boat trips worth booking:
➤ Arapiuns River & Indigenous Communities
If you’re looking for a deeper connection with the Amazon, this trip is a must. The Arapiuns River is quieter and less visited than the main Tapajós, giving the entire journey a more untouched, authentic feel. Along the way, you’ll visit small indigenous and ribeirinho communities, where locals still live largely off the land and river. It’s an incredible opportunity to learn about traditional crafts, taste homemade regional dishes, and hear stories passed down through generations. I still remember the flavor of the fish wrapped in banana leaves and the warmth of the people we met—it’s one of those experiences that stays with you.
➤ Pindobal Beach
For a slow, relaxing day, Pindobal Beach is the perfect destination. This stretch of white sand along the Tapajós River feels like a private island, especially if you visit on a weekday. The waters are calm and clear, great for swimming or just lounging under the sun with a fresh coconut in hand. Some tours combine Pindobal with stops at other beaches or Lago Verde, which makes for a perfect river-hopping day. I suggest packing a light picnic, plenty of water, and just soaking up the peaceful vibe—you might even have the place almost to yourself.
➤ Encontro das Águas
Just outside Santarém, this is where the Amazon River and Tapajós River meet—but don’t mix. The dark and light waters run side by side for miles. Go early to see giant water lilies, and maybe even a pink dolphin if you’re lucky!
Watching the Amazon and Tapajós Rivers meet without mixing is something you simply have to see to believe. The dark, almost black water of the Amazon runs alongside the shimmering blue-green Tapajós for miles, creating a surreal natural spectacle. Early morning is the best time to visit, when the colors are sharpest and the river is busiest with wildlife—giant water lilies, colorful birds, and if you’re lucky, a pink river dolphin surfacing near your boat. It’s a short trip from Santarém and can easily be combined with a stop at the local markets or a riverfront lunch.
🍽️ What to Eat in Alter do Chão
Get ready to feast. The food in this part of Brazil is all about flavor, freshness, and native ingredients. Here are must-try dishes:
- Pirarucu or Tambaqui: Grilled or stewed, these are Amazonian river fish with delicate flavor.
- Tacacá: A soup made with jambu (a leaf that tingles your tongue!), shrimp, and tucupi sauce.
- Açaí Bowl: But the real version—thicker, earthy, and often eaten savory with manioc flour.
- Cupuaçu Ice Cream: Don’t leave town without trying this creamy, fruity delight.
- Pato no Tucupi: A traditional duck stew cooked in tucupi sauce (made from wild manioc) and seasoned with Amazonian herbs. It’s a dish full of rich, bold flavors and a true taste of the region’s culinary roots.
- Maniçoba: Sometimes called “Amazon feijoada,” this hearty dish is made with ground manioc leaves that are cooked for days to eliminate toxins, mixed with pork and sausage. It’s a heavy but unforgettable meal, often served during festivals.
- Tapioca Crepes: Light and delicious, tapioca crepes are a local snack you’ll find everywhere, filled with cheese, coconut, or even savory meats. It’s the perfect quick bite between boat rides and hikes.
Also, don’t miss trying fresh river shrimp skewers from the street vendors, especially in the late afternoons near the waterfront. They’re simple, juicy, and full of that smoky flavor only a riverside grill can give.
Tip: If you want a truly local experience, visit the morning market in the town center. You’ll see (and smell!) all kinds of Amazonian fruits, spices, and river fish. It’s a great place to grab snacks or even arrange a casual meal with the locals.
🪘 Dive into Local Culture
Festa do Sairé
If you visit in September, you’re in for a real treat. Festa do Sairé is one of Alter do Chão’s biggest cultural events, blending Catholic processions with Indigenous traditions in a vibrant, colorful celebration. Expect lively boat parades on the river, traditional dances, and the famous “duel of the boto”—a playful reenactment where pink and gray river dolphins battle for the love of a beautiful woman. It’s a magical time to experience the true heart of the Amazon, and the energy in the village is contagious. I highly recommend timing your trip for this festival if you can!
Artisan Markets
One of my favorite things to do in Alter do Chão is simply wander through the artisan markets in the village center. You’ll find beautiful handmade jewelry crafted from seeds and natural fibers, woven baskets, ceramics, and herbal remedies straight from the forest. Every piece tells a story, and buying directly from local artisans supports the communities that keep these traditions alive. Plus, it’s so much more meaningful than anything you’ll find in a mall.
✈️ How to Get to Alter do Chão
- Direct flights: Fly into Santarém Airport (STM) from major hubs like Belém, Manaus, or Brasília.
- From Santarém: It’s a 40-minute car or van ride to Alter do Chão. Easy, safe, and scenic.
📅 Best Time to Visit Alter do Chão
Timing your trip to Alter do Chão makes a huge difference—trust me, the landscape here transforms completely with the river’s moods. Depending on the season, you’ll either find endless white-sand beaches or magical flooded forests. Both are incredible, but they offer totally different experiences.
Dry Season (August to January)
This is when Alter do Chão truly shines if you’re dreaming of beach days in the Amazon. The river levels drop dramatically, revealing wide stretches of white sand that look like they belong in the Caribbean. Places like Ilha do Amor (Love Island) are in their full glory, and it’s the perfect time for lazy swims, picnics, and boat rides along the Tapajós River. Hiking trails, like the one up Serra da Piraoca, are drier and easier to navigate, and the sunsets from the lookout points are absolutely breathtaking. The air is hot and dry, but the breeze from the river keeps things pretty comfortable.
What to expect: Clear blue skies almost daily, low humidity, and water that’s warm enough for endless swims. It’s also the peak tourist season here, but “crowded” in Alter do Chão still means you’ll often have whole stretches of beach to yourself—especially if you explore a little beyond the main village.
Rainy Season (February to July)
If you’re the adventurous type, the rainy season can be pure magic. This is when the Tapajós River overflows into the surrounding forests, creating an enchanted world of flooded trees and hidden waterways. It’s prime time for kayaking or canoeing through Lago Verde and other flooded areas, feeling like you’ve entered a living, breathing painting. Wildlife activity ramps up too—you’ll hear more bird calls, see colorful frogs, and maybe even spot a sloth hanging from a riverside tree. Jungle treks get more intense (and muddier!), but the payoff is pure, untouched nature.
What to expect: Short, heavy rains—usually in the late afternoon—cooler overall temperatures, fewer visible beaches, and lusher, greener landscapes. Bonus: you’ll be sharing the town with far fewer visitors, giving you a quieter, more intimate Amazon experience.
Pro tip: Pack a raincoat, quick-dry clothing, and waterproof shoes if you’re coming during the wet season. The rain usually doesn’t last all day, but you’ll want to be ready to explore even if you get a little muddy. Honestly, some of my favorite memories here involve paddling through flooded forests in the drizzle—it feels like the Amazon showing off just for you.
🌟 Hidden Gems + Insider Tips
- Stay in a small guesthouse: Many family-run pousadas have a common area where you can meet other travelers and plan group boat tours.
- Bring cash: ATMs are limited, and some places don’t take cards.
- Use Google Maps offline: Signal can be spotty in the forest.
- Avoid planning too much: Part of Alter’s charm is going with the flow.
- Spot the fork-tailed flycatcher at sunset—locals consider it a lucky sign!
🧳 Final Word: Alter do Chão Is the Amazon Beach Town You Didn’t Know You Needed
Whether you’re coming for nature, adventure, or just a break from the hustle and bustle of city life, Alter do Chão is the perfect place to slow down, breathe deeply, and reconnect—with nature, with people, and honestly, with yourself. There’s something about the rhythm of the river, the kindness of the locals, and the untouched beauty all around that makes you feel like you’ve found a secret world you’ll never want to leave.
Between the boat rides through crystal-clear waters, hikes to jaw-dropping viewpoints, plates of delicious Amazonian food, and the vibrant cultural traditions that pulse through the village, you’ll never feel like a minute here was wasted. If anything, you’ll probably start daydreaming about your return before you even pack your bags to leave.
Ready to plan more unforgettable journeys through Brazil? Dive into our other destination guides right here at brazilcityguides.com — your next adventure might be just a click away!
